Reported Essays

Reported essays and dispatches on labour, place, community, and the systems shaping everyday life.


The Workers Building What Toronto’s Restaurant Industry Never Had

Inside the Society of Hospitality Workers. (Originally Published on substack 2026/05/04) In the spring of 2024, a chef working two jobs in downtown Toronto stopped getting paid by one of them. She and four co-workers went weeks without paycheques. Five Labour Board complaints were…

The Keys to the Kitchen

How Slammie Sammies was locked out of its own restaurant. Originally Published April 2, 2026 on my substack. THE MORNING OF MARCH 6 On the morning of March 6, Pedro Dos Santos drove to 828 Eastern Avenue the way he had every working day…

I spent $1500 to stand outside NOMA’s LA Residency

The thing about Noma is that in the industry it’s like saying Kobe Bryant. Everyone knows Kobe. My mom knows Kobe. Outside the industry, Noma sounds like something you get from drinking on an empty stomach. The people I was flying to cover don’t…

Fresh, But Not Home

What Vietnam taught me about eating alive, and why Canada’s local food movement still leaves immigrant kitchens behind. It’s been two months since coming back from Vietnam, and the Canadian winter has already started to wear on me. Since landing, I’ve been sick for…